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errantemberI'm currently super annoyed at my Geo Metro. Two days ago I went outside to look into the occasional knocking and stalling it's been having recently to find the vehicle won't start at all. I have the factor shop manual, and have been working through the steps. I'm well past the point at which things should Just Work because I've made more than a token effort to fix things and have Spent Money. One thing that would really help is having an ODB II scanner. I have a code reader, but I need to see real-time data on things like engine air intake temperature, and all mine does is pull codes. Maintenance minutia follows:
The car gives a healthy crank, but won't keep going. I've checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the line at the carburetor. Fuel squirts out for about two seconds when the ignition key is turned to the ON position, which is exactly what's supposed to happen. It runs briefly when I put starter fluid into the carburetor. So far I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and distributor rotor, with no improvement. I've tested for spark on all three plugs both by hooking up an extra plug to the wires near the current plugs, and also by using an inductive timing light. The readings I'm getting from the light aren't 100% periodic, but I'm thinking that's probably cross-talk from nearby wires. I've verified the distributor is turning, and tested the resistance on both coils of the ignition coil. As far as I can tell, the entire ignition system seems to be working.
I haven't checked the compression or timing belt yet, which is on the menu for Thursday. I might try a few things while my Dad is visiting tomorrow, since it would be very helpful to have someone who can crank the engine while I'm looking at things under the hood.
I'm taking this car to Flipside, and that would be a lot easier if it were carrying me than me carrying it.
The car gives a healthy crank, but won't keep going. I've checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the line at the carburetor. Fuel squirts out for about two seconds when the ignition key is turned to the ON position, which is exactly what's supposed to happen. It runs briefly when I put starter fluid into the carburetor. So far I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and distributor rotor, with no improvement. I've tested for spark on all three plugs both by hooking up an extra plug to the wires near the current plugs, and also by using an inductive timing light. The readings I'm getting from the light aren't 100% periodic, but I'm thinking that's probably cross-talk from nearby wires. I've verified the distributor is turning, and tested the resistance on both coils of the ignition coil. As far as I can tell, the entire ignition system seems to be working.
I haven't checked the compression or timing belt yet, which is on the menu for Thursday. I might try a few things while my Dad is visiting tomorrow, since it would be very helpful to have someone who can crank the engine while I'm looking at things under the hood.
I'm taking this car to Flipside, and that would be a lot easier if it were carrying me than me carrying it.
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no subject
Date: 2011-04-27 05:27 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-04-28 05:49 am (UTC)Managed to get the car running today, but not sure why. The only thing that changed between running and non-running state was that I took apart part of the carburetor, tested to see if the fuel pump was working (squirt-squirt!) and then put it back together.
This info may well be useful in tracking down why the engine idle is so rough in the first place.